On a recent wine-based visit to Bordeaux, I thought I'd set myself the challenge of finding a good coffee (of any description) somewhere in the Southwest of France. As you can imagine, there were many contenders for the title of 'Worst Coffee in the Sud-Ouest' but, by far and away, in the seaside town of Arcachon, we found the coffee equivalent of white spirit.
If Stuart Allen was to update the The Devils Cup, this would surely take pride of place on the cover as, if the Devil does indeed drink espresso, this would be his favoured tipple. The French Coffee Shop is a crime against all that is good in coffee and, even worse, it's a franchise so can be found at several locations over France.
After searching long and hard for a half-decent cup we decided to spend a few days in the Pyrenees to take in the scenery. As we were driving through some of the most beautiful locations that France has to offer, we ventured higher into the mountains and, after a short walk even higher, we came across the last hostel before you hike into the Pyrenees. It was a stunning location and, in our most pigeon French, we asked if we could have something to eat. Unfortunately, they weren't serving food but they did say we could have a coffee. I accepted with very little hope in my heart.
Whilst sitting in a veranda overlooking the mountains we were served two cups of coffee in glass cups. I sniffed and wasn't immediately repulsed: was that light floral tones? Intrigued, I lifted the glass to my lips and tasted the coffee. I placed the cup back on the table and looked over at my wife. We both started to smile but we didn't need to say anything. At the edge of the Pyrenees, as close as you can come to Spain without hiking, we had found a great cup.
I decided that I would not try to find out what the coffee was - in fact I like not knowing - it was enough just to sit, take in the views and enjoy the best cup of coffee in the Southwest of France.
Comments